Now, Norfolk is not a county known for its holy wells and apart from a small, hard-to-come-by monograph written in 1978 by a Mr M Burgess for a long-defunct local history journal that covered Suffolk as well, there's nothing written about them. But, fewer and perhaps less-regarded than those in other parts of the country though they may be, they are there, and I saw some of them when I was away.
This is the Round Well, on the boundary between Costessey and Teverham on the outskirts of Norwich, photographed on a wet afternoon as the light was going. It's marked on the OS map although I know nothing of its history; however that's a splendid obelisk and urn on the top. I wonder whether in origin it may have had a connection with St Walstan (see below)?
Not strictly a holy well but clearly originating in the same sort of milieu is this wonderful and very grand 'reservoir' next to All Saints Church in Upper Sheringham, constructed by the lord of the manor to celebrate victory over Napoleon in 1814 (a bit prematurely, as it turned out). Apparently the spring water comes from just above the church.
The Calves Well lies along a track along the hill south of Sheringham. At least I think this is it: there was nothing else remotely watery along the whole length of the lane that bears its name.
Continuing the theme of weed-filled pools, this is the Pettywell not far from Reepham. It sits in front of an old farmhouse which bears the name.
St Withburga's Well at Dereham finds a place in every list of holy wells, and is an absolutely classic example, rising just west of the church. It has an association with the legend of the Anglo-Saxon princess whose name it bears, though there are suggestions that in origin the well was a fourteenth-century grotto which has been turned into something else. It's railed off, understandably, as there's a steep drop down to the water and no obvious way of getting to it safely.
St Walstan's Well at Bawburgh is another long-famed holy spring which is associated with the legend of St Walstan, supposedly having risen where his body rested on the final stop along its journey to be buried. The well stands in a little glade just north of the church, private but with public access. Nothing about it looks very old: I wonder when it was restored and changed from the open round well you can see in old photographs.
And finally: I'd seen the Mermaid's Head Spring on the OS map in the woods south of Aylsham and went to look for it. I know that very often I find nothing more than a muddy hole in the ground, but always nurse a fantasy as I stump across fields or wade through mud in a wood that the well I'm looking for will have been noticed by some mad 18th-century aristocrat who will have built a folly round it, or will at least have some brickwork or something. As far as the Mermaid's Head was concerned, the fantasy remained just that. If this is indeed it!
How bizarre ideally searching the web and find you could be in Norfolk at the same time and visiting the same wells! In fact I'm staying in a hotel at the back of St. WIthburgas well! Did you see St Chad's Well that does have a folly? Or rather it is a folly!
ReplyDeleteHow odd, Ross! No, I didn't go near Brettenham and the accounts I'd read suggested the well wasn't easily accessible - it sounds as though you may have had better luck. I could, as it turns out, have taken in St Thomas's Well at Wymondham on the way home but at the time didn't know where it was so I didn't bother. Are you surveying Norfolk, then? That would be good!
ReplyDeleteGreat minds eh? Bound to happen. As regards a book, I am surveying Norfolk- on and off since 1995 - I dare say! Close to finishing soon. I know the location of St Thomas's well, but when I first visited I was given the brush off by an elderly lady. I believe there's new owners, could have visited this time but thought best on the weekend just visited the Hethel Thorn and Ketts Oak. The Brettenham site is on private grounds, found the owner accommodating back in the 1990s and arranged a visit. Ended up being ill and never been. It's one of the last on the list to visit, hopefully publish next year. I presume you've seen these posts https://insearchofholywellsandhealingsprings.wordpress.com/2013/09/19/a-norfolk-field-trip/ and https://insearchofholywellsandhealingsprings.wordpress.com/2011/12/11/a-norfolk-field-trip-holy-wells-of-north-norfolk/ ? The Grimston site is interesting it appears to record a local saint. I'll keep you posted regarding the publishing. By the way are you on Facebook?
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